The first
archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was found in
Egypt around
3500 BC during the
Old Kingdom.
[citation needed] The
Ancient Greeks and
Romans also used cosmetics.
[5][6] The
Romans and
Ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing poisonous
mercury and often
lead. The ancient kingdom of Israel was influenced by cosmetics as recorded in the
Old Testament—2 Kings 9:30 where
Jezebel painted her eyelids—approximately 840 BC. The Biblical book of
Esther describes various beauty treatments as well.
In the
Middle Ages, although its use was frowned upon by
Church leaders,
many women still wore cosmetics. A popular fad for women during the
Middle Ages was to have a pale-skinned complexion, which was achieved
through either applying pastes of lead, chalk, or flour, or by
bloodletting. Women would also put white lead pigment that was known as "ceruse" on their faces to appear to have pale skin.
[7]
Cosmetic use was frowned upon at many points in Western history. For example, in the 19th century,
Queen Victoria publicly declared makeup improper,
vulgar, and acceptable only for use by
actors.
[8]
Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile ladies.
They compared themselves to delicate flowers and emphasized their
delicacy and femininity. They aimed always to look pale and interesting.
Sometimes ladies discreetly used a little rouge on the cheeks, and used
"
belladonna"
to dilate their eyes to make their eyes stand out more. Make-up was
frowned upon in general especially during the 1870s when social
etiquette became more rigid.
Actresses however were allowed to use make up and famous beauties such as
Sarah Bernhardt and
Lillie Langtry
could be powdered. Most cosmetic products available were still either
chemically dubious, or found in the kitchen amid food colorings, berries
and
beetroot.
By the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were in widespread use by women in nearly all
industrial societies around the world.
Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of years. The absence of
regulation of the manufacture and use of cosmetics has led to negative
side effects,
deformities, blindness, and even death through the ages. Examples of this were the prevalent use of
ceruse (white lead), to cover the face during the
Renaissance, and blindness caused by the
mascara Lash Lure during the early 20th century.
The worldwide annual
expenditures for cosmetics today is estimated at
$19 billion.
[9] Of the major firms, the largest is
L'Oréal, which was founded by
Eugene Schueller in 1909 as the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by
Liliane Bettencourt 26% and
Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is traded publicly). The market was developed in the USA during the 1910s by
Elizabeth Arden,
Helena Rubinstein, and
Max Factor. These firms were joined by
Revlon just before
World War II and
Estée Lauder just after.
Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated internet-only retailers,
[10]
who have more recently been joined online by established outlets,
including the major department stores and traditional bricks and mortar
beauty retailers.
Like most industries, cosmetic companies resist regulation by
government agencies like the FDA, and have lobbied against this
throughout the years. The FDA does not have to approve or review the
cosmetics, or what goes in them before they are sold to the consumers.
The FDA only regulates against the colors that can be used in the
cosmetics and hair dyes. The cosmetic companies do not have to report
any injuries from the products; they also only have voluntary recalls on
products.
[11]
Though modern make-up has been used mainly by women traditionally,
gradually an increasing number of males are using cosmetics usually
associated to women to enhance or cover their own facial features.
Concealer
is commonly used by cosmetic-conscious men. Cosmetics brands are
releasing cosmetic products especially tailored for men, and men are
using such products increasily more commonly.
[12]
There is some controversy over this, however, as many feel that men who
wear make-up are neglecting traditional gender roles, and do not view
men wearing cosmetics in a positive light.
[who?]
Others, however, view this as a sign of ongoing gender equality and
feel that men also have rights to enhance their facial features with
cosmetics if women could.
[who?]